Anyone who’s done the interminable drive on Interstate 5 between San Francisco and Los Angeles will tell you: It is deeply boring. It is flat and beige, with its most notable sensory experience coming through the nose, thanks to Harris Feeding Company near Coalinga (sample Google review: “smells like my bathroom after i have some spicy del taco food”).
But there is another memorable encounter near the West Side Freeway. It is thick and bright green, encased in kitsch and nostalgia dating back to the 1920s. It appears alongside humble saltines and packets of Melba toast. It is the split pea soup from Pea Soup Andersen’s.